Problem Barking

It is unrealistic to expect your dog to never bark; this is the equivalent of expecting your child to never speak. However, some dogs bark excessively. If this is a problem you have, the first thing you need to do is work out why your dog is barking. Once you know the triggers for the barking you can begin to train your dog that excessive barking is unacceptable.

Why Do Dogs Bark?

Dogs bark to communicate; it is how they 'talk'. What the barking means will vary depending on the situation. Some reasons dogs bark include:

• Hello/Come Play barking– dogs will sometimes bark in greeting, whether they are greeting people or other dogs. They will also bark to try to encourage their human or another dog to play with them.

• Attention barking – dogs will bark to get their human's attention; this may be for a pat, a treat, to get you to play a game or let them outside.

• Boredom barking – bored dogs may bark in an attempt to get attention or company. This can escalate into destructive behaviour.

• Compulsive barking – some dogs seem to bark just for the love of hearing their own voice. Dogs who bark compulsively often exhibit repetitive actions as well, such as running in circles.

• Anxiety barking – this is similar to fear barking. The dog is upset and afraid, and barks to express this feeling. If your dog is anxious, and you do not address the problem, your dog may develop aggressive behaviours.

• Fear barking – dogs may bark if they are startled. A loud noise or an object that startles them can lead to a fearful bark. Certain situations or experiences that cause a dog fear may also lead to fearful barking. This kind of barking can escalate to territorial barking and result in aggressive behaviour.

• Territorial barking– your dog may be protecting what they see as their territory from a perceived threat; this could be a person or another dog. As the threat comes closer, the barking will increase. Your dog will act and behave aggressively during this kind of barking.

How to Treat Excessive Barking

Training your dog not to bark excessively will take time, patience and consistency. It may take a long time to correct, but with persistence and consistency you will get there.

If your dog suddenly begins to bark excessively, or exhibits sudden changes in behaviour get your dog vet-checked to make sure there is not a medical reason they are barking. Pain or illness could be the root cause of the excessive barking.

Shouting at your dog will not help. Your dog will think you are joining in the conversation and will continue to bark. They may even increase their efforts. Don't yell; speak firmly and calmly to your dog.

Don't ignore the problem; the longer your dog is allowed to continue an unwanted behaviour, the more of a habit it becomes, and the harder it will be to train out. Barking can lead to a release of chemicals in your dog's brain; your dog can then become addicted to barking.

If your dog barks when they are alone and/or bored, tire them out. Games that mentally tire your dog are best; excessive exercise can over-stimulate your dog and may lead to increased barking. Mild exercise combined with games and training will physically and mentally tire your dog.

Once you have identified the reason(s) your dog is barking, you can begin to work on fixing the problem.

• Attention Barking - if your dog is barking for attention, ignore them. If your dog barks because they want you to do something and you do it, you are teaching your dog that barking will get them what they want and they will continue this self-rewarding behaviour. If your dog is barking because they need to go outside to toilet, teach them an alternate way of letting you know.

Don't tell your dog off for barking. This is still attention; you are still giving your dog what they want. Ignore the barking and teach calm non-vocal communication.

You should never reward your dog for barking when you come home; no petting, praising or making eye contact until your dog is calm. Once this happens - JACKPOT! - lots of praise and pats.

• Boredom Barking - if boredom or loneliness is a problem for your dog, give them something to do while you are away. Train your dog to be alone; crate training is essential for this. Give your dog appropriate (mild) physical exercise to avoid over-stimulation. Play mentally-stimulating (and therefore tiring) games with your dog before you go out. If your dog is an outside dog, bringing them inside will reduce the impact on your neighbours and offer better security for your home. You will need to train your dog to be inside or in a crate.

This will not be a complete solution if your dog is bored inside. Maybe look at getting a friend, family member or paid dog walker to visit with your dog each day while you are out. A further option is to take your dog to doggy daycare a few days a week. Your dog will get to play with other dogs, in a safe, supervised environment, so has the added benefit of learning to play with other dogs and socialising with other humans. If this is not an option for you, try a food-dispensing toy or two, like a Kong. This will keep your dog entertained and mentally stimulated. A mentally-stimulated dog is a tired dog, and therefore a quiet dog.

• Fear/Territorial Barking - if your dog is barking because they seeking to protect their territory, or because they are frightened or alarmed, try limiting their ability to see or hear the cause of the barking. The quickest way to stop this is to manage your dog's environment; remove their sight-lines to potential barking triggers.

Outside, use privacy fencing. You could use the kind that installs over existing fences or plant privacy hedges.

In the house, consider closing curtains and blinds. Spray-on glass coatings or opaque removable plastic films that allow light in but decrease visibility are also options.

If your dog barks at night, bring them inside, and train them to be quiet. Having your dog inside will give the added bonus of increased protection for your family.

• Anxiety Barking - if your dog is barking because of anxiety, you need to work out the cause of the anxiety, the 'triggers', and seek methods to reduce this. You may need to seek professional help to address this problem.

• Hello/Come Play Barking - dogs that bark at the ringing of a doorbell, a knock on the door or when you get home need to be trained out of this behaviour. One way to do this is to teach your dog a 'Place' command. Train your dog to go to their 'Place' and to remain there calmly when the door opens. It is a good idea to train your dog within sight of the door, but not too close.

Choose a spot, and get your dog to go there, but do not open the door. Use treats and praise, until your dog is going to their 'Place' on command and remaining there calmly until released 100% of the time.

Once your dog has mastered this, have them on a tether or lead and open the door; if your dog goes to move or bark, give a double tap on the tether/lead (only hard enough to get the focus from the door back to you). At the same time, use a clear, sharp correction sound like 'ARGHH!' so your dog understands they are not to move or bark; their job is to remain calm and wait for a command.

Once your dog is remaining calmly in place when the door is opened have someone come in the door; if your dog goes to move or bark, give a double tap on the tether/lead (only hard enough to get the focus from the door to you). At the same time, use a clear, sharp correction sound like 'ARGHH!' so your dog understands they are not to move or bark; their job is to remain calm and wait for a command.

• Compulsive barking - dogs who bark compulsively may also need professional help to identify the cause of their compulsion and techniques to resolve the issue.

Should You Use a Bark Collar or Similar Device?

Thanks to advances in technology and a wider understanding of dog behaviour, there are some products on the market that claim to effectively control barking in a gentle, humane way.

Electronic collars

The old type of e-collar delivered a painful jolt to your dog and this is still often the case with cheaper versions. Newer, more expensive types deliver a 'stim' as well as using sound and vibration. Owners should always be taught how to use these devices correctly and dogs need to be properly conditioned and trained to wear them. Poor training and lack of conditioning can lead to emotionally, mentally and physically damaged dogs, resulting in fear, anxiety and/or aggression.

Ultrasonic Devices

Ultrasonic bark deterrent devices work by emitting an ultrasonic sound that dogs find unpleasant, which startles them out of barking. Reviews of ultrasonic anti-bark devices are mixed; some dogs don’t respond to them, and others are too sensitive for what is essentially a correction. But for some dogs, these are effective.

Citronella Collar

Promoted as a humane alternative to shock/stim collars, the citronella spray bark collar utilises a burst of citronella spray to eliminate excessive barking. Dogs generally don’t like the taste or smell of citronella, and the 'Shhh' sound can startle them into reducing or stopping their barking.

My opinion is that these collars are anything but a humane alternative to anything. They are cruel; the smell and taste of citronella can last for hours upon hours, as it sticks to the dog. A concentrated burst of citronella to dogs who are averse to it can be mentally damaging. This turns the collar from a correction device to a cruel punishment that can last for days. I would never recommend such a device.

Stress-reducing Collars

Stress-reducing collars are laden with dog-calming pheromones, which may help to calm stressed dogs thereby reducing anxious barking. Reviews are mixed, with some dogs not responding at all, while for others, these collars are effective.

ThunderShirt

The ThunderShirt Anxiety Jacket has been found to be very effective for some dogs, but not for others. It is promoted as being helpful to dogs suffering from anxiety, over-stimulation, compulsive barking and fear and anxiety caused by loud noises such as fireworks and thunderstorms. The shirt works by applying gentle, constant pressure to calm your anxious, fearful or over-excited dog.

You can make your own version of the Thundershirt using a human bandage. A search on Google will show you how to do this.

The Thundershirt has mixed reviews; some people swear it is an instant fix, while others have little to no luck. My only advice would be to ensure that your dog does not overheat from any covering you put on them, and that your dog is never left unsupervised while wearing a Thundershirt or similar.

Noisemakers/Water Sprayers

There are other devices on the market that you could try if barking is occurring in a clearly defined area. One option is noisemakers which emit an annoying sound when they detect a dog barking. Another option is bark-activated water sprayers which will spray your dog with water when they detect your dog barking.

These tools also have mixed reviews. I would never recommend any of these, and would suggest that if you were to use something like this, that you ensure you never use them when the dog is home alone.

Train Your Dog

No matter what tools you decide to use to reduce/stop your dog's unwanted barking, training will make them more effective. A few key commands that will help include:

• Focus – this technique teaches your dog to focus on you, and will eventually see bark triggers reduced to 'white noise'. This means that your dog will learn to ignore these triggers, even when you are not present.

• Recall – you can use this technique to teach your dog to ignore barking triggers. When your dog ignores the trigger, and comes to you – JACKPOT – lots of praise and treats.

• Speak – teaching your dog to bark on command can help them not to bark at other times. Once your dog knows this command, and is doing it 100% of the time, you can teach them to stop by using the 'Quiet' command and hand signal. If you practice these commands when your dog is calm, they will learn to stop barking on command.

• Quiet – this command will teach your dog to calm on cue. You can do this by using a calm but firm voice to say 'Quiet', while holding a finger to your lips when your dog is barking. When they stop, no matter how brief the break, praise and treat. Make sure you never treat your dog while they are barking. Eventually your dog will work out they are being treated for stopping barking when you say 'Quiet' or perform the hand signal, and will begin to respond faster.

• Sit with auto-stay – having your dog sit in a stay when someone comes to the door ensures your dog won't rush forward. Having the dog tethered or on a lead ensures you can maintain control and correct/guide your dog as necessary.

• Calm – these techniques teach your dog to remain calm in the face of distractions, and are immensely useful in all situations.

• Noise desensitisation – by desensitising your dog to bark triggers, you will teach your dog to stop responding.

Patience and consistency are essential when training your dog to stop unwanted barking. It may take some time but it will be worth it in the long run.

Don'ts

• Don't encourage your dog to bark at specific noises and not at others; consistency is key.

• Don't use muzzles or other restraints to keep your dog quiet.

• Don't punish/correct your dog for any behaviour that arises out of fear or anxiety. If you do this, you risk creating an aggressive dog.

• Don't punish/correct aggressive behaviours. Aggression breeds aggression. Even if this tactic seems to work initially, there is a high-level of risk it will eventually backfire.

• Don't ever correct your dog 'after the fact'. They will have no idea what they are being corrected for. Correcting your dog 'after the fact' becomes punishment. Punishment results in your dog feeling anxious and fearful. An anxious and/or fearful dog is an aggressive dog in waiting.
  
  
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